Senegal was a challenging port, one that left us all a little confused as to why. Why Dakar? There's a lot to cover in this post, not all good but it'll offer a glimpse into life on board and some of the issues we face and the discussions we have. As always I'll hold a bit back as this remains an unsuitable forum.
Acute Gastroenteritis (AGE). An unfortunate reality of any situation where you have a 3000 plus strong population. Especially one that's just been to South Africa. Prior to our arrival into Durban we issued some public health advice around eating and drinking in South Africa. Avoid salads, avoid ice in drinks and only consume sealed bottled water. Inevitably we had guests who didn't heed the advice or had spent a few days in country prior to embarking in Cape Town. As a result, AGE crept in and spread to the point where we invoked elevated hygiene measures to control the spread. This receives a bad press and breeds fake news. Social media groups revelled in doom mongering. We activated our level 3 response which means that deck privileges were suspended to protect the crew and to minimise the opportunity for AGE to spread. Thankfully it barely touched the crew. Hand washing is a way of life for us working on board and that is demonstrated by the absence of AGE amongst the crew population. Unfortunately, the same regime is not practiced by all guests and it increased in numbers. Thankfully not huge numbers and at the time of typing we're on the cusp of reducing our response. Our measures are robust and work when adhered to. Of course it remains unpleasant and we'd all rather not have to lock down but short term pain usually works. Hopefully it has and we can look forward to dropping those measures in the next day or two
So that was AGE, it's had enough column space for now!
Let's talk about Senegal. I asked the question why earlier and that was a question that was on our minds leading up to our arrival. Most of us enjoy a progressive society and of course seeing the world means embracing other cultures. Our whole business model works around diversity and our crew demonstrates this with pride.
So why would we visit a country where only this year they have upped their prison sentences for acts associated to homosexuality, a life they consider illegal. This flies in the face of the things we promote so a very odd choice that literally resulted in crew members being to scared to go ashore.
To be fair, you didn't have to be gay to be worried about going ashore. The country is rife with corruption and it shows. The town wasnt safe and we had issued comms to that effect. This is not a place for our guests or crew to wander freely without fear. I'd already decided that I wasn't going ashore. I felt that if ever there was a day to stay on board 'just in case' this was the day.
It didn't disappoint
A plaque exchange had been arranged for 10am and what ensued was bedlam. A show of corruption. A show of status and wealth with little to no substance.
A cavalcade of brand new Toyota Land Cruisers with flashing blue and red lights rolled onto the quayside containing VIP's. A far cry from the poverty we'd seen so far. After decamping from their vehicles with their private security they headed to watch a local welcoming party. After that they headed in my direction to board the ship.
At which point, things went south. The 36 we agreed to host doubled. Hangers On and charlatans put the number closer to 80. All barging their way to gain access to my ship. Unannounced, uninvited and out of control. Claiming to be the chief of this, the top boss of that, a legend in their own lunch break. The level of self appointed importance was immeasurable. It was also untenable and I simply couldn't allow it. The Queen Mary 2 is perhaps one of the the most famous vessels on the seas right now and I'm charged with it's security. This was a point lost on our invited and invited guests alike. What happened next did not meet their expectations. But it kept the ship safe. Maybe this will serve as a lesson that will mean learning takes place. Self appointed entitlement does not work outside their own sphere of control and influence that they normally enjoy.
The experience has left me still asking why. Why expose ourselves to that level of risk. It maybe that this is exclusive to Queen Mary 2 and her fame. Perhaps other ships don't have this level of interest. Maybe we have to accept that you reap what you sow and by building the reputation of this icon you have to wear the attention.
But Senegal was something else. It's clear that what I saw was importance without substance. So important, that it was without question they didn't have to adhere to our rules when they are so used to having none. Enforcing ours didn't land well and went against the grain of their normality.
On the flip side, we're so used to social compliance that this took us by surprise. I hadn't expected to encounter professionals that would give so much lip service to the very industry they claim to represent on behalf of their country.
If any learning did take place it was on my part and sadly when (if) we return we will be considerably less accommodating from the very start.
I've never been more pleased to leave a country behind.
In much better news. We are heading to Santa Cruz de Tenerife. A place I am very familiar with and am very much looking forward to returning to.
After that, we head to Cadiz and then onwards to Southampton!!! Nearly home!!!
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